HOW TO Install Landcruiser to GU steering box conversion kit

The kit includes all brackets needed for the conversion but you will need workshop tools including but not limited to a welder, grinder, hand tools, a 17.5mm and a 25mm drill bit.

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1. Bolt the outer chassis plate onto the chassis, lining up the standard steering box holes. This will act as your template to drill the GU box bolt holes.

Drill all 4 holes through both sides of the chassis rails to

12mm (and the panhard mount where needed)

Be sure to keep the drill square to the chassis. (A second set of eyes from the side can help with this)

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 2.Unbolt the outer plate and drill out the holes you just did in the chassis to suit the outer dimension of the supplied crush tubes (17.5mm). DO NOT DRILL OUT THE HOLES IN THE OUTER PLATE.

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 3. Take your measurements and cut down the crush tubes to sit through both sides of the chassis (and panhard bracket). Leave enough length to fully weld them but you want to grind them flat after, so don’t leave them too long.

The tube that comes through the panhard bracket MUST be left longer and not sanded down. Once all the tubes are welded in and sanded down prime both sides of the chassis and inside edges of the inner and outer chassis plates with a weld through primer.

 

 4. Clamp the inner plate in place, it may need some cleaning up to fit over the panhard and existing crushtube welds. It is too tall so you can get a nice weld on top from the outside. Use your new crush tubes as a guide and drill through the inner plate (this is done for two reasons, if you don’t drill perfectly square it won’t matter and the crush tubes will be fully secured in the chassis with no chance of pulling out)

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5.Bolt on the outer plate and weld in place. You can weld up the old holes if you wish.

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6. There is a triangle gusset supplied to go on the tube running from the panhard mount to the other chassis rail.

 

7. You can now paint your chassis and bolt up the steering box

  

 

 
8.Pull the pitman arm off on your new steering box and drill out the taper where the drag link would go, to 25mm. Insert the new tapered slug into the pitman arm. If you drilled it well, it should be a tight fit.

Ensure the taper is the correct way up in the pitman arm. You want the larger side on the top. Weld it top and bottom, flush on the top and sand down the bottom of the pitman so you can put a nut on the bottom again.

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• 9. The two power steering fittings can be screwed into the top of your box and tightened, cut the flare off the ends of your factory hoses and remove the old tube nuts from the pipes.

Slide on the new compression fitting and tighten them up.

 

The High pressure line goes to the more forward fitting

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 10. You can now bolt the drag link on. The rod end will need to be spun 180 degrees to suit the new inverted taper.

The taper will be backwards on the rod end now. A U bolt clamp style adaptor can be used from Superior or PSR etc. (Just check the diameter of your drag link when you order so the u bolts fit around, or match the brand to your drag link) 

A powder coated bracket has been provided to offset the factory chassis mount to suit if needed. As seen here.

 

Bleed the system and check for leaks on your compression fittings. Drag link adjustment will need to be made to ensure equal lock left to right once all complete.